We don’t clean any rug, we clean your rug.

Even if you had a pair of rug shoes like these. But please remember we charge by the square foot.

Nobody can predict when a glass of wine, a cup of tea, plate of food or many other things will accidentally end up on your carpets or upholstery. Accidents do happen, and when they do the best defence is to be prepared and know how to properly treat the spill for the best results.

The first thing you need to be aware of is that there is a difference between a spot and a stain. Spots on the carpet are generally a contaminant or foreign substance that can usually be removed completely by using sound spotting techniques. Stains are almost without exception chemicals that have altered or destroyed the carpet dyes, face yarn or backing material.

You need to be patient! Spot removal can be a simple straightforward chore, or a incredibly complex and time consuming. Complete removal of the spill may require repeating the same step several times. Various factors such as the substance of a stain, how long it has been in the carpet, the fibre type and dyes in the substance or carpet will affect your success in removing the stain.

Two important things to remember, act quickly and always blot, just blot, blot, blot, and blot. Soak up as much as you can with a white towel or cloth.

Many stains can be removed quite simply when they are fresh. Do not rush into rubbing or scrubbing with what ever is under the kitchen sink. Scrubbing will bust and fuzz the fibres and cause permanent damage. The spill can be removed, the damage cannot.

Work from the outside of the spill inwards, this will stop the spill spreading. Keep alternating between spraying water mixed with white vinegar onto the spill and blotting gently with a fresh piece of towel each as not to transfer the dye back into the carpet.

If in doubt, just give us a call.

Referrals are the best form of increasing new clients, but you need other ways to draw attention to yourself.

What are the benefits of using your services versus anybody else.  Well I can imagine the two carpet cleaning machines below attracted a lot of interest in their day.

Wool is the best fibre on the planet for rugs. It’s strong, dyes up vividly, always washes up beautifully, and lasts and last and lasts.

 Persian hand woven wool rug from mid-1800′s, and still looks fantastic!

Even the lesser quality wool rugs from a decade ago, perhaps the ones more heavily chemically processed from China, still would last you decades. So your choice back then was great investment wool rugs (sold at Rug Galleries) and not-so-great commodity wool rugs.

But still, if it was wool, it was worth owning back then.

Today it’s a whole different ballgame. And the market is flooded with SYNTHETIC area rugs.

The synthetic fibres, olefin (aka polypropylene), polyester, and acrylic, are being used to create “FAKE” wool rugs… but as you can see side by side, it’s like putting particle board next to real wood:

FAKE on left (acrylic), REAL on right (wool).

Pros and Cons of Today’s SYNTHETIC Fibre Area Rugs

PROS: They are cheap.

You should truly pay next to nothing for these rugs because there is no labour cost in their production (all are machine made) and the fibres are essentially poor quality plastic. This is basically the big “pro” of these rugs, that they are cheap.

The back of olefin rugs are hard to the touch - they feel like plastic because they are plastic.

CONS:  They require MORE cleaning.

The great thing about wool is that those fibres have lots of “pockets” in its construction to hide dust and grit, so they look good even when they are dirty.

That is NOT the case with olefin, polyester, and acrylic, which are plastic fibres and solid and smooth strands. This means there is no place to “hide” soil so it simply sticks to the outside of the fibres, and these rugs get duller, and uglier faster as a result. This means you will want to clean your synthetic rugs after months on the floor rather than after a year or two with your wool rugs. Synthetic rugs get ugly faster.

Because they are synthetic, if there are no issues like pet urine or flood exposure contamination, they can be surface cleaned with Hot Water Extraction (aka “steam cleaning”) and can be cleaned using more aggressive cleaning solutions than can be used on wool.

"Blah" looking acrylic rug. Flat colours. Texture looks like a sponge.

They wear and yellow faster. 

Because they are plastic, they do not have longevity, and do not wear well with abrasion. In fact, most wall-to-wall carpet in commercial buildings is installed olefin carpet (because it’s CHEAP!). So the next time you are in a commercial building take a look at the entryways and high traffic areas of their carpet, and you will see how worn down that carpet gets after only a few years.

By the way, home improvement stores often carry olefin (polypropylene) carpet for homes (because it’s CHEAP!), but this is the absolute worst fiber to have for residential homes because it simply does not hold up to foot traffic. Look for nylon instead if you want synthetic fibers for your wall-to-wall carpeting.

Olefin, polyester, and acrylic can get worn after just a few years on the floor.

They are STICKY and SCRATCHY.

The most maddening thing about these cheaper synthetic rugs for their owners, and for the professional cleaners who are asked to clean them, is that they grab everything and are tough to get to release lint, hair, and grime.

These new synthetic shag rugs being sold by stores like B&Q, are next to impossible to get looking super clean because professional cleaners need to literally try to “pull away” what washing does not release row by row. This construction type also cannot be surface cleaned with today’s tools, so sometimes you get rugs that require much more labour to clean, sometimes exceeding what was paid for the rug in the first place. to buy it

With shorter pile synthetic fibre area rugs, you will be tempted if you own one to just get a lint roller to try to roll up the stuff sticking to the fibres that your vacuum cleaner cannot pick up. It’ll use a lot of lint roller sheets though. =)

The only vacuum cleaners I’ve seen effective at getting lint and pet hair off of these types of rugs are the Sebo vacuum cleaners, which are fantastic, and powerful, German made machines, but also not a cheap machine in order to vacuum up a cheap rug.

They also, because they are plastic, are not super soft to the touch. They aren’t rugs that feel great when you walk on them barefoot, and kids certainly are not going to want to roll around on them.

They often have JUTE foundations. (If you have PETS, you will hate this fact.)

If you have pets that are not properly trained, you will have a problem with synthetic rugs not because of the plastic fibres.  Actually, olefin fibres though they ugly with grime, they are pretty much stain proof. But these plastic fibres are often wrapped  around jute.

Front corner of synthetic rug

Back corner of synthetic rug, see the thick beige jute wefts.

Because nothing can penetrate the olefin fibres themselves (they have no “pockets”), there would technically be nothing to “hold” the odour in them…

…but the jute is another story entirely. And being thick compacted jute fibres, they hold odour like no other fibre can. They are the king of odour-holding fibres!

This means if you have any odour issues with synthetic rugs, you have two choices: one, to know that you will have to likely pay quite a bit more to clean and deodorize your rug by having it thoroughly washed than you paid for the rug to buy it; or, two, go buy another one and hope your pet does not repeat the problem.

Again, if the synthetic rug just is “dirty” and dull looking, it can be surface cleaned with hot water carpet cleaning equipment and chemicals. But if there are ODOR issues, or exposure from a FLOOD, the rugs need to be fully washed and deodorized – or simply replaced if that is the cheaper and easier option.

(FYI: With hand woven rugs, removing odours is not a problem. A proper wash process thoroughly removes the contaminants from urine exposure or flood exposure from wool and cotton fibre rugs.)

They are petroleum products, so they are not sustainable resources.

These plastic fibres are made from petroleum. There are some people who are not aware that synthetic fibres are plastic. They may not want to own them due to political, or environmental, or perhaps health reasons.

What’s nice about wool is that it’s a renewable resource…

…it grows back year after year to be sheared.

You will never say “WOW” after these synthetic rugs are cleaned.

What’s great about being a cleaner of wool rugs is that there is always a “wow” between when a client brings it in dirty, to when it is clean again.

One of the drags about having more synthetic rugs on the market today is that often the buyers of these rugs are not aware they are synthetic, and after they pay good money for a good cleaning, the “after” look of the rug is better but never a “wow.”

Olefin (synthetic) area rug. It's never going to look great.

DISPOSABLE rugs vs. ENJOYABLE rugs

Today the rug market has been overridden by a lot of really bad product.

There are cheap synthetic rugs, and all basically considered “disposable” rugs. The synthetic ones, because of the problems I’ve noted already, and the tufted rugs because of the growing problem with the latex holding them together. The landfills are slowly being filled with these rugs that only last a few years.

There are however, still “enjoyable” REAL rugs out there. WOVEN rugs. Rugs with a part of a weaver’s heart and soul added to the strands.

You might think that to buy a woven rug will set you back financially, but there is actually good quality new woven wool rugs at very affordable prices available.

It basically all comes down to this regarding synthetic fibre area rugs…

If you need a rug that you don’t want to worry about, you could care less about the look because you are using it for a floor covering rather than as a decorative addition to your home, and you know you will replace it in a few years – then buy a synthetic rug. (Or perhaps a wool tufted one if you want something that hides soil better than olefin.)

I have both in my house. A few small tufted wool rugs, and a few olefin mats, literally being used as door entry rugs because I did not want feet being wiped off on hand crafted woven rugs… that just seems disrespectful even though a wool woven rug could take it very well. Wool woven rugs are tough.

When I look at a hand woven rug though I see a piece of a weaver’s life in front of me…,,,so I don’t like wiping my feet on it. =)

And with that, you know more than you probably wanted to about today’s synthetic fibre area rugs.

By Lisa Wagner CRS, used with permission

Fine fabric cleaning and Oriental rug cleaning require advanced skills to those of carpet cleaning. You achieve those skills by basing your experience on reliable practices and continual retraining and updating your knowledge with industry experts.

For me personally, if there is a better way of cleaning or restoring fabrics and rugs or just a different approach to today’s fabrics, I am always willing to learn them.

I have recently returned from hands on training in America, where I became the UK’s first Textile Pro, with the international Textile Pro Network. Elbow UK was one of the first companies from across the US, Canada, and UK to participate in the Textile Pro Program launched by rug specialist Lisa Wagner and fabric specialist Jim Pemberton.

The Textile Pro Program is a course of advanced training to develop specialists in the field of oriental and specialty rug care, as well as fine fabric care.

As you know I already provide rug and upholstery cleaning services, but this was an opportunity to become even more skilled at handling especially natural fibre (wool, silk, cotton) textiles for you.

DUSTING

Vacuuming your rugs is the BEST thing that you can do to keep your rugs in great shape in between rug cleans. Think of all the dust that daily settles on to your hard floors … that same dust settles on your rugs and needs to be removed also, otherwise it works its way into the fibres and causes damage you cannot correct.

However, you do not want to overly “brush” these fibers, so the best tool to use is a canister vacuum cleaner, or the upholstery attachment on your upright HEPA-filter vacuum cleaner, and just run it over the top of the rug fibres. Vacuum WITH, not against, the nap of the rug’s “fuzzy” side. (The rug’s fibres are similar to your pet’s fur – you know when you are petting with the nap, and when you are not. Going “with” it causes less friction.)

If a lot of dirt seems to be collecting on the rug – like on your entryway rugs – then turn these rugs fuzzy side down and run an upright beater bar vacuum along the back side (stay away from the fringe tassels or you’ll suck them up!). This “shakes” the dirt out of the base of the rug’s foundation, and then you can flip the rug over and vacuum away all of the dust, dirt, allergens, mould spores, bacteria, and other “unmentionables” that have been brought into your home by lots of shoes, feet and paws.

Entry rugs with high traffic should be “dusted” twice a week (or more) with your canister or upholstery attachment. Rugs with moderate traffic should be dusted weekly. Even rugs in areas with no traffic will still have dust settling on them daily, so attend to them bi-weekly. A consistent dusting routine will help keep your rugs cleaner and healthier longer. It will also (especially when using a HEPA-filter vacuum) help keep your indoor air cleaner.

In the past green cleaning products tended to be expensive or just did not perform as well as their predecessors, but over the last few years these solutions have caught up and in a lot of circumstances have passed the old detergents and shampoo’s in performance.

It’s better for you and definitely better for me, both in health and performance of the results I can produce in cleaning.

Eco friendly furniture cleaning

I have always been improving the range of solutions and equipment that makes my work easier and safer, I’m  not getting any younger you know. So far on the test’s I have carried out, upholstery cleaning results are more predictable, in that I can say, yes this fabric will come clean. I am not going to change habits here and guarantee one hundred percent results, because I can not do that. What I can say is if you have a ten year old sofa you will still have a ten year old sofa, but a clean one.

So, what are the Environmental benefits?

•  Low aquatic toxicity and readily biodegradable.
• Active fermentative  extracts and natural bacterial cultures.
• No VOCs helps reduce GHGs.
• Reduced energy use, effective cleaning without steam or hot water.
• Reduced use and disposal of chemical products.
• Concentrated product, reduced transportation (GHG) and packaging.

Well since time began, kids will push what ever food they don’t like around and around, hoping it will disappear, just evaporate into thin air because no matter how long they make you sit there, you are not going to eat it. Wait that’s it, disappear, so one hour and 32 minutes later you hide it under the knife and fork. No that didn’t work either. Oh just give me a thick ear and let me go out to play please.

I mention this because, I have discovered whilst carrying out a  furniture cleaning service that kids have found a new method. Well a new one on me, they sit on it, yep they sit on it. How else can you explain why I am cleaning so much furniture with food on.

Not quite dry yet, but when it is, food stain will be gone

Next food stain, and mum had an attempted spot, only to distort the fabric. Wait until you dad gets home, I can hear it now.

Next, more food stains on a sofa, sometimes you do not need to call out an upholstery cleaner as this may brush straight out.

Just let it dry, brush with soft brush or one of your vacuum attachments and hoover it up. It may need a damp towel gently wiped over the surface.

My answer to them is this: “Cool idea… BAD reality.”

Shag rugs out in the market today are far and away the most difficult rugs to clean and maintain.

In theory I understand the “fun” of it. You can get a crazy, cushy, unexpected look in a home that looks like it would be fun to walk on, roll on, and play on…

…but the coolness factor fades pretty darn fast for the owner, especially when they find out how hard it is to keep many of these rugs looking good, and how expensive it is to have these rugs professionally cleaned. (Though if they know these things before buying them, they can just get something cool and know they will replace it in a few years after it gets too dirty to enjoy any more.)

At our rug cleaning facility we often charge more to clean shag rugs per square foot than we do to clean much more valuable silk rugs. That’s because there is a lot of additional hand work needed to try to clean what gets embedded in the fibers of these rugs.

The shag rug may be an inexpensive one from Pottery Barn or IKEA, or a pricier one from a designer shop. Shag rugs of all values ALL present challenges that take considerably more time to get these rugs truly clean.

And more time to clean unfortunately means more cost to the shag rug owner.

Here is what you need to know about shag rugs if you own one (or are thinking of buying one), or if you are a professional cleaner and are going to attempt to wash one.

WOOL SHAG = SHEEPDOG

Some of the first “shag rugs” were woven Flokati rugs from Greece, which cleaners often refer to as sheepdogs, because it’s a big shaggy construction that is difficult to wash and brush out smooth, as a sheepdog can be.

Greek Flokati wool rug. One of the first “shag” rugs.

If you clean them regularly (before they look dirty!), you can keep Flokatis looking good and staying “fluffy” for years. There is extra time needed to groom and get the rug nice after a wash, so generally cleaners charge more to clean Flokatis versus regular wool woven pile rugs.

Here’s an even older shag rug that came into our shop that is not wool, but is SILK. This was crafted by a client’s grandmother during World War II with silk parachute cord strands:

Silk parachute cord – vintage WWII.

The problem is that this was woven on a burlap/jute foundation which over time has become brittle so the rug is slowly falling apart. But this may be the “oldest” shag rug I’ve seen in my rug career:

Silk parachute cord WWII "shag" rug.

It’s a shame the foundation is weak because this actually is a good fibre to build a shag rug from. The silk cords are strong, so they do not “mush” up and lose their shape. The slickness of silk also keeps the inside fibres relatively clean – you can shake the rug upside down and get much of the dust to simply shake away. The grit does not grab onto the fibres as they do wool or synthetic fibres with this type of shag construction.

Back to WOOL shag rugs…

Today we are beyond just the Flokati type of construction. We are getting rugs that many of us describe as NOODLE rugs, because the wool fibres look like pasta noodles. =)

Wool shag "noodle" rug.

These rugs have heavy twists of wool as the face fibres, and they are loosely woven into typically a heavy cotton backing. Here are some of the drawbacks of these wool shag rugs, both the “noodle” ones and the “shaggy sheepdog” ones.

These rugs have a felted type of wool, which wants to grab EVERYTHING and hold onto it.

This means if you have pets, you are NEVER going to get the pet hair out. If you have kids that crumble food on the rug, you are NEVER going to get all of the crumbs out of the rug with any vacuum you own. It’s almost like a microfiber cloth, it picks up everything and does not let go of it.

Wool shag that picked up black flecks from a husband's socks - this won't wash away, you will have to pick these fibre "dots" away one by one. YOU have to... because I won't. =)

These rugs yellow over time.

Wool can yellow over time from exposure to light, exposure to certain chemicals (like laundry detergents), or due to being woven on a jute foundation or with a construction that has used latex to hold it together.

Wool shag rug is yellowing from latex backing and age.

Usually the wool used has been bleached to make it “whiter” in the beginning, and this does damage the wool so it will yellow over time as a result. Sometimes short term “whitening” can be done again using a low percentage hydrogen peroxide treatment, but all whitening attempts do add a little more damage to those already weakened fibres.

These rugs are very tough to vacuum and to spot… and the tufts can pull out easily.

The construction of these wool pieces makes it impossible to vacuum with a regular vacuum. A Dyson on these rugs would be a disaster. You need a canister vacuum, or an upholstery attachment, to try to literally vacuum the sides of these fibres and in between them row by row.

Wool shag construction tough to get the "grit" in the base of the rug out.

Spills also can be a disaster and need to be gotten to immediately otherwise they work their way down into that heavy cotton foundation, and this is much harder to get clean afterwards.

If your vacuum (canister) is too strong, or your spotting attempt too aggressive, you might pull some tufts out because they are typically not in there very securely.

A good tug on a tuft can yank it out of a rug like this.

Though wool by far is the superior fibres for rugs on the floor, that is when you are discussing short pile woven rugs. With the shag construction, the looser weave construction with wool can grab a lot of lint, hair, dust, and general mess and embed it deep in the fibre base to where you may not be able to keep it clean and sanitary.

There are some higher quality wool shag rugs that have much more fibre density that helps protect that grit from easily falling into the base like these other wool examples I’ve shown.

Here is a sample of a high quality wool shag rug.

Shagtastic wool rug.

I had a client bring in this sample to show me because I was trying to dissuade her from buying what I thought was a “typical” wool shag rug. This UCL construction has a very high density of wool in it (8 pounds of yarn per square yard). It also has a very strong backing construction that is not the loose and absorbent cotton style.

But it is also not cheap. The price was £30.00 per square foot. I have to say though, I was very impressed with the quality of the construction and it’s the first time I’ve told someone “that is a good shag rug.”

ACRYLIC SHAG = FIRE HAZARD!

The synthetic knock-off of wool is acrylic.

For those who “know” wool, they can spot acrylic right away. It lacks the luster and vibrancy of dyed wool, and the texture is scratchier (which makes sense because it is plastic).

Acrylic white shag rug.

As with some of the comments made before about shag “felted” wool, acrylic also (even more so) grabs lint, hair, and “gunk” and does not let it go. These rugs are very hard to keep clean, and the tufts are even easier to pull out as well. These rugs are usually quite cheap to buy, so we are seeing them pop up more and more because they are a cheaper way to have the “look” of wool without the price.

But unlike wool, a big danger of acrylic is that it is HIGHLY flammable.

Up close acrylic fibres.

Wool as a fibre self-extinguishes when lit with a flame. It will literally put itself out (this is due to the high moisture content in the fiber to begin with).

That is one of the pluses of wool as a fiber for clothing or for a rug on the floor or any other fabrics in a living environment. (I don’t know if you’ve noticed when you fly that the interior floor and seat fabrics are generally all wool, which will not burn unless under constant and continuous strong flame, unlike most other fibres.)

Acrylic when it was first used in clothing was discovered to be highly flammable, and government standards had to be established (especially for children’s clothing) which brought the addition of fire retardant to fabrics in clothing and on furniture. You usually see this referred to as “modular” acrylic.

But I am not seeing that same treatment reaching the rug world in our area.  I can tell you that the last few acrylic shag rugs I’ve fiber tested by burning a tuft, have not just burned – they have IGNITED into a big flame and burned very fast.

Anyone purchasing a rug made of acrylic needs to be aware that the screaming deal they got on the price might actually be bringing a serious fire hazard into their home. We’ve seen two client fires this past Christmas holiday, one where a grandchild playing with fire dropped it on to a blanket that caught fire, and then spread to the rug, and then another where a cat knocked over a candle onto a rug that caught fire.

A low pile acrylic would obviously be difficult to “ignite” – but these shaggy construction acrylic rugs, I would not even allow one into my home.

DESIGNER SHAG = PRICEY… and can be COSTLY to maintain.

Then you have a lot of whacky construction shag rugs using synthetic fibers, artificial silk, and even leather strips.

Leather shag rugs.

I like the look of the shaggy bomber jacket on this rug.

Leather shag rug.

The challenge with leather shag rugs is that as they age, they lose their sizing, their colour, and their “look.” When brand new the strips of leather are perky and bright and stiff, and they are quite cool looking.

It is possible to clean these rugs with leather cleaner and not have to fully wash them (washing can remove the sizing that makes them stiffer, and can remove colour) – but usually when we see leather shag rugs there has been a dog in the home, and there are pet puddles in the backing material (usually absorbent cotton) and that rug just flat out needs a serious bath or it will just have to be thrown away.

This is an example of a cool idea… but a not super practical choice for a home with pets. And these rugs are understandably expensive if the quality of the leather is good.

Synthetic shag rugs (polyester, nylon, and viscose).

Then you have a whole host of synthetic designer shag rugs, which even though synthetic fibers are much less hard cost to use, does not mean that the custom rug designs are cheaper. You see prices all over the map depending on the “designer” brand.

Some synthetics are made to look like leather strips:

Synthetic shag rug.

Others are made to look like silk, like this viscose and polyester blend:

Side view construction of viscose-poly shag.

One of the “pluses” of synthetic rugs is that they are all primarily plastic fibres, so they can take the heat (and chemicals) of hot water extraction (“steam” cleaning) which natural fibre rugs like wool cannot. This means synthetic rugs can be surface cleaned this way at much less cost to the owner because steam cleaning a rug takes a fraction of the time as thoroughly washing it does.

Unfortunately, with this type of shag synthetic construction, even with the powerful tools at a carpet cleaning company’s disposal, they also would need to literally try to clean these rugs with upholstery cleaning hand tools because full carpet wands and machines would not work on those long strands. They would pull the tufts out and unravel the rug.

It’s a lose/lose situation.

SHAG RUG CLEANING CHALLENGES

Here are the challenges facing professional rug cleaners AND rug owners when they have a dirty shag rug on their hands:

1) You can’t vacuum them. Even if you have a canister vacuum, or an upholstery attachment tool, you have to literally vacuum in between the fibers row by row to try to get most (but not all) of the “gunk” out of the middle of these rugs. It’s time consuming, but if you love the look of the rug when you buy it new, then you have to commit to the regular upkeep… or plan to replace it in a few years.

You just can't vacuum it... and it NEEDS it badly!

2) You can’t spot clean. Spills have to be quickly blotted up or just give up. The cotton construction of the backing material can quickly suck up a spill, and if it’s anything food-related you can attract bugs with the contents not removed from the rug right away.

3) You can’t D-I-Y clean. These rugs are much too heavy to move, and impossible to dry if you own one and try to clean it yourself. If you are a professional rugs cleaner, sometimes in a full wash system you can use a softer pressure washer spray (700 p.s.i) to try to clean in between the rows – with some constructions that will help the grime release. Just take care to not cause pile distortion or loss.

Incredibly tough to get this rug super clean. It's going to flower and fuzz with scrubbing, so what's a cleaner to do? Sometimes some slightly higher pressure water can help.

4) You can’t get odour out easily. The cotton foundations of many of these shag rugs absorbs urine easily from pet accidents, and you need A LOT of water to get those contaminants out. Surface cleaning is NOT going to solve this problem, in these cases the shag rugs must be fully and professionally washed.  Even then, if the backing has latex adhesive in it, you may not ever get all of the odour out of the rug. That is why these are not the ideal rugs for homes with pets that are not trained.

5) There is no quicker, cheaper clean. Even synthetic shag rugs, which should be steam cleaned, can’t because of the construction. That means the only option is washing them, which is a labour intensive service. So if the cleaning price is more than the price of the rug, you might just plan to buy a new one every 2 or so years. (Rugs under regular use should be cleaned every 18-24 months. If you dust/vacuum them regularly, you can extend it to 30 months, and any longer than that the rug is truly not sanitary after all of the feet, shoes, and paws walking all over it. Just buy another new, clean rug.)

There used to be shag wall-to-wall carpet several decades ago until everyone realized what a nightmare it was to live with and keep clean. Sometimes kids even got lost in those fibres! =)

The same fate will happen with today’s shag rugs… they will go out of style when it becomes apparent how tough, and how expensive, it  is to keep these rugs looking good.

By Lisa Wagner CRS, used with permission

Here is an example of bad, or is it just a lack of knowledge and not keeping up to date with new solutions, techniques and equipment.

Draught marking or filtration soiling that the client has excepted for 18 years because the the carpet cleaner told them it is impossible to clean. Well it is not impossible.

Draught marking or Filtration soiling comes from the air flowing around your house and as air passes over the carpet it deposits dust and other airborne particles onto the carpet. The level of soiling is dependent on the volume of airflow and contaminants in the air. This happens over a period of time and is not noticed until there is a build up. Concentrated air flow will normally be from an upper level of the home by wind blowing through opened windows, ventilation ducks and between rooms. Warm air moves up, and as it cools, drops down. The soiling can be anything from cooking oils to vehicle emissions and it will attract dry soil and dust to add to the build up.

Here is a short video, not of how but before and during to show how straight forward this can be.